Canonfire! - Fashion in the Flanaess

Fashion in the the Flanaess - The Suel presents the traditional garments worn by the Suel in the old Imperium and in the successor state of Keoland. Fashion reflects climate and the Suel dressed practically for almost uniformly warm weather. Where the Suel have migrated to more northern climes, they have had to adapt. Traditional garb remains, however, even if in modified form, perhaps only worn at court. At the same time, where the Suel have mixed with other cultures, fashions have also mixed and been adapted. Dress for success. Suel fashions can appear deceptively simple. You are not really going to wear THAT to court are you?

Fashion in the Flanaess - The Suel
By: Glenn Vincent Dammerung, aka GVDammerung
With able assistance from S. Katherine Dammerung, aka SKDammerung
Used with Permission. Do not repost without obtaining prior permission from the author.

Suel fashion is a direct product of the environment of the old Suel Empire and its chief successor state, the Kingdom of Keoland. Both are in southerly climes where heat is an issue. Where Suel have moved to more northerly climates, their garb has been modified to reflect the realities of that weather. All traditional Suel costumes can be generally described as draped. Clothing is not fitted or form fitting but is loose and free flowing. Historically, Suel clothing reflects the clothing of ancient Greece and Rome. The descriptions below follow a historic model with some flexibility and adaptation for use in the game.

What follows is a female and male wardrobe based on the classic Suel model of the Empire and Keoland. Uni-sex garments are so noted. In places like the Urnst states, and other locations where large Suel populations mix with substantial sub-populations, these styles will be encountered frequently, but may not predominate. Areas bordering upon Suel enclaves will also present mixed styles.

In the Gran March, by way of example, the fashion of the upper levels of society is purely Suel, reflecting the historic influence of Keoland. However, when not attending court functions or seeking to impress viewers with one’s station, Gran March nobility and middle classes will often affect the Western Aerdi fashions more commonly seen in Furyondy (see Fashion in the Flanaess - Western Aerdi). This is chiefly the result of the interplay between the Gran March’s Knights of the Watch and Furyondy’s orders of knighthood, most notably the Order of the Hart. While orders of knighthood may be found throughout the Flanaess, none make such grand entrance and show as the multitudinous knightly orders of Furyondy. Among the lowers classes, particularly the peasantry, in the Gran March, the style is very much that of the Southern Flan (see Fashion in the Flanaess - The Flan).

Polyglot, or striated, fashions like those found in the Gran March are increasing common. As fashion is not static, fashion trends will come and go and in that process modify what would be a purely historic costume. While traditional fashions will usually maintain a historic dominance in a culture, it is not uncommon for individuals to chart their own course. And more powerful or charismatic figures will influence others.

Female Wardrobe:

Chiton - A Chiton is a basic ankle length dress. It is a loose wrap of cloth without drapery. Sleeves may be long or short.

Kolpos - A girdle or belt, the Kolpos is used to pull up the Chiton from the ground as necessary.

Himation - A Himation is a draped ankle length dress. It may be thought of as a more elaborate version of the Chiton. When fringed or embroidered, it may be much more elaborate.

Chalamys - A Chalamys is a shorter version of a Himation. It falls to mid-calf or the knee.

Stola - A Stola is a female toga. It may be worn with a Chiton or Himation. In either case, it provides greater warmth but also presents a more elaborate appearance, if desired. Particularly when worn with a Himation, the effect can be quite impressive.

Petasos - A Petasos is a floppy brimmed hat of simple utility. It keeps the sun off.

Sandals - Sandals are appropriately worn with any of the above dresses.

Male Wardrobe:

Tunica - The Tunica is the basic article of male dress. It is typically white, short sleeved and falls just below the waist. It may be worn by itself or, more usually, under a Toga.

Tunica Manicata - A Tunica Manicata is a Tunica with long sleeves to the wrist.

Tunica Talaris - The Tunica Talaris has long sleeves and a skirt that falls to the ankle. The Talaris is generally worn with a Toga.

Tunica Palmata - This is a “dress” Tunica, generally embroidered or decorated or expensively dyed.

Toga - A Toga is a wrapped and draped garment that is loose fitting and falls to near the ankle. It is typically white.

Toga Virilis - This is the “everyday” Toga. It is six inches shorter than the classic Toga, leaving the feet clear.

Toga Praetexta - The Toga Praetexta is reserved for public officials and immediately distinguishes them. A colored band will denote the particular office of the wearer.

Toga Picta - The Toga Picta is reserved by Suel sumptuary law to the nobility. Its distinguishing feature is an expensively dyed color - purple, scarlet, saffron, indigo.

Toga Trabea - The Toga Trabea is a “dress” Toga that is usually parti-colored. This effect is achieved with different color cloth, not necessarily multiple dyes, although the constituent cloth types might be individually dyed.

Cloaks - Cloaks may be variously worn by men and women, as will be noted. The cloak is the chief protection in Suel fashion against the weather. Cloaks are commonly worn in mountainous areas where temperatures are not as hot.

Pallium - A Pallium is a draped cloak of intermediate length. Worn by men and women, it is the standard Suel cloak. The effect of the cloak is not only practical but accentuates the look of a man’s toga or a woman’s Chiton or Himation.

Paenula - A semi-circular cloak of varying length, the Paenula may be worn with an attached hood, the Cucculus, or without a hood. It is worn by both men and women.

Lacerna - A hip length, rectangular cloak worn by men, this cloak is as much worn for a look as for practicality.

Sagum - A Sagum is a rectangular cloak worn by the working class. It is cut short of the calf so as not to get in the way of whatever work is being done.

Paludamentum - A military Sagum, cut both larger and longer, the Paludamentum is usually dyed and is both practical and, particularly when worn off the shoulder or set off from the shoulder, impressive.

Cothurnus - A Cothurnus is a calf high-laced boot.