This article looks at those fashions common in the Baklunish west and briefly explores the connection between the Baklunish states of the Flanaess and the Zindush states of Zahind.
Fashion in the Flanaess - The Baklunish
By: Glenn Vincent Dammerung, aka GVDammerung, with able assistance from S. Katherine Dammerung, aka SKDammerung
Posted with permission. Do not repost without obtaining prior permission from the author.
The Baklunish states of the Near West have a tradition of fashion that is distinct from both the former Suel Imperium of the south and the states of the Flanaess. Baklunish clothing tends to be flowing as the summers in Zeif, Komal, Risay, Ekbir, Tusmit, Ull, and the Plains of the Paynims are often very hot. However, this clothing can also be surprisingly heavy, or is intended to be worn in layers, because winters can be as cold as the summers can be hot. Changing clothes throughout the year is a necessity, not just a fashion statement.
In each of the Baklunish states, fashion is slightly different. The religious restrictions placed on women in Ekbir is the best, or worst, example. Tusmit, Ull and the Paynims favor clothing that is functional because these societies are to a substantial degree nomadic, following herds or raiding. Komali and Risai fashion reflects the important role seafaring plays in each of these lands and is the most free form. Zeif displays every variety of Baklunish fashion.
Baklunish fashion is also influenced by the fashions of the Zindush States of the Deep South, also known as Zahind. At first blush, this is surprising because of the distance between these areas and the intervening expanse of the former Suel Imperium, now the impassable Sea of Dust. Commerce, however, has long been conducted between the Baklunish and Zindush States (as well as with the Celestial Imperium and Ryuujin), via the great Dim Road. Running deep beneath the surface of Oerth, the Dim Road is a series of subterranean galleries, vaults, chambers and passages through which it is possible to travel from the eastern foothills of the towering Tyurzi Mountains (which mountains mark the farthest extent of the Flanaess) to Zahind, completely underground. Along this path, caravans navigate the darkness, never seeing the sun or stars. While the journey is long and the risks significant, the trade in luxuries is so profitable that each year many deep delving caravans set out into the darkness, even if fewer return to the light.
This article looks at Baklunish fashion generally, adopting Zeif as a defacto standard. Where a particular garment is worn predominately in one nation, this will be noted by reference to the name of the country in parentheses.
Male and female wardrobes follow.
Caftan: A Caftan is a long full robe with a slit neckline decorated with embroidery and long, full bell-shaped sleeves.
Daharra: A Daharra is a full robe with no sleeves, similar to a Caftan.
Camyss: A Camyss is a linen shirt.
Pantaloons: Pantaloons is a catch-all term for a number of types of loose fitting trousers.
Alkalouk & Kamarchin: Alkalouk is a long sleeved robe worn as an undergarment with numerous pockets. Kamarchin is a calf-length or waist-length outergarment worn over the Alkalouk. The Kamarchin has slits so that it is possible to reach the pockets of the Alkalouk.
Angharka & Saradi: Anga/Angharka - a coat with wide sleeves, the Anga is ankle-length, while the Angharka falls to mid-thigh. Both variations are fastened by loops above the waist. A Saradi is a sleeveless waist coat worn over the Anga or Angharka.
Robes, Coats, Vests & Capes:
Tchapan: A Tchapan is a long loose outer robe with full sleeves; it is frequently quilted and striped.
Bourka: A Bourka is a heavy winter covercoat.
Antery: An Antery is a sleeveless vest that falls to the waist or to the knees.
Achkan: An Achkan is a fullskirted, knee length coat with a high collar, buttoned down the front to the waist.
Burnoose: A Burnoose is a circular traveling cape, often tasseled (Selham)
Feradje: A Feradje is a long, loose, cape or cloak.
Jubbah: A Jubbah is a long sleeved, ankle length, loose outer garment that is made of fur or is fur trimmed or lined for winter wear.
Chapkan: A Chapkan is a type of Angharka worn only by servants; it is belted with a cumberbund.
Dhoti: A Dhoti is a loincloth or abbreviated or short breeks. Dhoti are only worn by the working class.
Galabijeh: A Galabijeh is a shapeless robe worn by peasants.
Kaffiyeh-agal: The Kaffiyeh is a white head scarf that is secured by a thick corded wool band, the Agal.
Turban: A headress made by winding cloth around the head, Turbans may be of any color or even parti-color.
Fez: A Fez is a hat shaped like a truncated or cutoff cone.
Chikan: A Chikan is a close fitting, embroidered hat.
Papush: Papush are leather slippers.
Berundjuk: A Berundjuk is a full chemise or bouse.
Shalwar: Shalwar are very full, ankle length pants gathered into a band at the waist and ankles.
Angiya: An Angiya is a short sleeved bodice which just covers the bust. It is often worn indoors with the Berundjuk and Shalwar.
Yelek: A Yelek is a long coat or jacket with long sleeves that is buttoned to the waist. It is often worn indoors with the Berundjuk and Shalwar.
Sari, Choli & Chaharkhana: A Sari is a fitted, wrapped dress. An import from the Zindush States, the Sari is widely popular, coming in a multitude of styles and colors. A Choli is a scooped neckline blouse with short tight sleeves that can be worn with a Sari, a Choli reaches just to the ribs. It is often colorfully embroidered or braided with gold and gems. A Chaharkhana is an elaborate, ankle length dress, with short or long sleeves. It is only worn by the wealthy.
Camis, Chudidar & Caban: A Camis is a long blouse, worn with Chudidar. Chudidar are baggy pants, worn with a Camis. A Caban is a fitted coat with sleeves.
Feredeza: A Feredeza is a loose coat or cape with large sleeves worn out of doors to completely cover the body from neck to feet.
Burka: (EKBIR) A voluminous ankle length garment completely covering the head and figure with a veiled opening for the eyes, a Burka is typically heavy and black.
Chadri/Chadur: (EKBIR) An all enveloping garment covering from head to toe with netting over the eyes, a Chadri/Chadur is lighter than the Burka but still usually black.
Gandourah: A Gandourah is a loose ankle length shift worn by peasant women.
Carma: A Carma is a conical hat, similar to a Henin . See Fashion in the Flanaess: The Aerdi West.
Chaddar: A shawl that covers the head.
Festul: A Festul is a veil which hangs to below the hips. It is held in place by a tiara, diadem or jeweled comb.
Orhna: An Orhna is a head veil worn with a Sari.
Pah-poosh: Pah-poosh are velvet slippers with high heels, decorated with embroidery and jewels.
Djellaba: A Djellaba is a 3/4ths length cloak with a hood for inclement weather.
Babouche (Shoe): A Babouche is a heelless slipper.
Kafsh (Shoe): A Kafsh is a low slipper.